‘Every Culinary Artist Should Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on List of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.